Posted on 03/10/2022
Perfume hot spots
Posted on 05/19/2021
Sicily – Dolce e Gabbana
There is the classic first edition of this, and now the re-issued version of Sicily, the Perfume. Means there are aficionados of the original and scepticism about the newly-arrived edition. Laced with aldehydes and sporting a citrus, heliotrope, banana, orange blossom and honeysuckle opening and jasmine-rose heart, Sicily embodies core scents that denote the island itself. In contrast to the two Ô de Lancôme fragrances, Sicily is a classier act and more suited, baggage allowing, to sultry Mediterranean summer evenings. We can’t quite understand why D&G would have ever discontinued this fragrance as it’s made for summer and can push to autumnal wear as it captures Mediterranean scents in a headier sillage.
Lime, Basil & Mandarin – Jo Malone
Jo Malone is an airport duty-free staple these days and much the same could be said for the signature cologne in the range – Lime, Basil & Mandarin. If you are lost among the testers and time is pressing, you can’t go wrong with this choice among Jo Malone colognes. Most of the range sport two key notes on the scent name, such as Wood Sage & Sea Salt or Oud & Bergamot. But this aromatic-citrus threesome, while seeming a pedestrian combination of notes, is really well put together and effortless to wear in a hot climate. A bracing, rich citrus accord with the intriguing grass-and-mint smell of basil, clear and bright as a morning after rain”.
Posted on 05/19/2021
Do Natural Perfumes Last Longer?
Yes and no. Fact and myth.
Let’s start with dispelling the myth: To put it simply,we can load up a natural perfume formula with notes that will peel off the skin slowly. Sandalwood, for instance, can easily last a month or more on a scent blotter. So too can various notes we associate with ‘base notes’: vanilla oleo resin, labdanum, cistus, frankincense, patchouli, ylang ylang, jasmine, vetiver, musk ambrette and even notes like Cognac.
These are all heavier molecules that may have a low impact initially but are very tenacious over time. They generally don’t fly off the skin fast, depending on personal skin biome, climate and humidity. These base notes can be used to create a natural perfume in entirety – a kind of linear structure without surprises – and also to fix more volatile top notes like those of the citrus family.
Another way to make a natural perfume last is to use some natural isolates in the formula. These are akin to concentrates and are often extracted using CO2 from raw aromatic and botanical materials. They are richer, more powerful versions of the original material. One we love using is guaiacol natural isolate which is a moody, woody, smokey note extracted from pine root.
It is therefore entirely possible for natural perfumes to be long lasting. It is up to the creativity and skill of the natural perfumer to juggle the percentages to craft the desired perfume. And the end juice might be one that can equate to those of the commercial mass market, or alternatively be a perfume of rare qualities desired by the indie market cognoscenti.
Facts about Natural Perfumes not lasting
There are some limitations on the natural perfumer. It is not easy to create a light airy citrus cologne that will also last a long time. Citrus notes are highly volatile and will evaporate fast. They can be fixed with those base notes and slowed to some degree.
Of course, it’s not strictly true that citrus flies all at once as along with the citrus will be some of those heavier molecules and, vice versa, the citrus molecules will have had a role to play during the macerating period of a perfume, in altering the state of the base notes. A perfume is a melange after all.
Posted on 07/01/2020
Roja Dove – actually its Roger but I think that rejecting its name tells a lot about the pose this brand stroke.
As an adolescent, he began a correspondence with the PR of the house of Guerlain, also known as the “Vatican of perfume industry” as we are talking about almost 200 years old house with a striking number of timeless perfume masterpieces it continues to produce today. He continued bombing them with questions during his medical studies he gave up to begin working in the fashion industry. When he was 24 after tiring Robert Guerlain with his questions so much he gave him an administrative job. He worked for 20 years in Guerlain and advance to the position of brand ambassador.
Then he magically opened his own perfume production in 2001. Surprise surprise, most of his creations resembled Guerlain perfumes – those already presented and those waiting to be presented. During the years he spent there he had the chance to spend time with the best perfume makers in the world and he learned a lot from them.
Are copycats the best way to repay them for the incredible opportunity given t him? Is imitation the greatest form of flattering? I’ll let you be the judge of that…
What do the critics say?
World’s greatest perfume reviewer Luca Turin gave all Roja Dove’s perfumes one star or two. The only exemption is Fetish that received three. Not one perfume landed on the good, four, five stars perfumes list. Ordinarily eloquent and interesting, Luca used one word to describe Roger Dove’s perfumes – “routine”. And he was appalled by their price.
As far as I’m concerned, luxury bottles, encrusted with metal, bejeweled with diamonds and crystals cannot mask the desperate lack of inspiration and imagination. Lack of talent is noticed with every breath and the insincerity, fakeness and narcissistic conduct of Roger (Roje) Dove can pass only with the newly rich but never with European with wit and culture and a true passion towards perfume making art.
Posted on 08/12/2020
TOM FORD - PERFUME HOUSE –
Afashion genius, a billion-dollar businessman, a creator of perfume bestsellers, an Oscar-nominated director, a perfectionist, an individual in many ways, these are just some of the words that describe a living legend, a man who made an institution out of his name – Tom Ford.